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Dyes from yesterday, colors for tomorrow : Kuyichi’s AW-09 collection

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Dyes from yesterday, colors for tomorrow : Kuyichi’s AW-09 collection

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The present essay comprises the different phases considered for the execution of my graduation project “dyes from yesterday, colours for tomorrow”. The preliminary phase of this research started in January 2008 during the last month of my exchange program at ESDI, Textile Design School in Barcelona. I read an article about the study of natural dyes found in old Mediterranean textiles. This research was intended to trace back the dye sources and techniques used in ancient textiles. The results of this investigation would enable the fashion industry to count on new sustainable proposals. Dyeing is a technique that has been practiced for centuries. Synthetic colours have replaced the natural ones. However the industry and the consumer are showing an increasing interest in natural and environmentally friendly products. Kuyichi is a fashion brand that creates style and awareness of the circumstances in the fashion business. I approached this subject from three different points of view. The first one: a possible subject for my graduation thesis. The second one: a tactical plan and sustainable proposal for a fashion conscious company such as Kuyichi and last but not least, a look into historical facts concerning the study of ancient textiles in Peru and their applications in today’s fashion industry. I introduced the subject to Kuyichi considering these facts: 1) their fashion conscious mindset 2) Peru as sourcing country for the organic cotton and manufacture, which means an advantage in the supply chain and 3) the name Kuyichi derives from the Peruvian god of the inca’s and means rainbow” in the ancient Peruvian language, which embodies a potential and marketable selling point for the introduction of natural dyes. Kuyichi wants to introduce natural dyes in its collections as a tactical plan. Due to aspects related to time and research this plan has not been started yet. The problem description at Kuyichi is stated as the non-managed opportunity for selling garments with natural dyes. The research main question that arose for this thesis was: What is the best way to a successful introduction of natural dyes in Kuyichi’s AW/09 T-shirts collection? The aim of this research is setting production-related basis for the development of garments with natural dyes. The demands of Kuyichi for this program with natural dyes include 1) a “green” t-shirt program 2) a colour pallet of maximum 4 or 5 different colours and 3) a cost price slightly above of the cost price of garment pigment dyeing. The desk research phase, carried out in the Netherlands, comprised the sourcing of Peruvian dye houses. The field research phase took place in Peru. The tasks included samples development and technical information gathering. The Dye-houses approached were: Ecotintes, Tintes Naturales Inca and Dye and Finish. The garments were received and observed. Kuyichi’s sourcing and production team expressed their satisfaction with the first results of this research. A program of garments with natural dyes may eventually be included in the collection AW09. The quality tests were carried out at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. The results point out that just a few colours comply with the European quality standards (ECLA norm). The cost of dyeing with natural sources surpasses the price of garment pigment dyeing with 50% and the production budgets must consider an extra amount (20%) of garments to be delivered in the dye house in order to prevent a shortage of clothing pieces after the dyeing service. Dyeing with natural sources is not a standardized process and waste might be higher than 10%. Natural dyes are not intended to replace the market of synthetic dyes. Natural dyes offer an eco-friendly alternative to the consumer. The qualitative aspects of natural dyes are being improved in order to participate competitively in the dye market.

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OrganisatieHogeschool van Amsterdam
InstituutMedia, Creatie en Informatie
Gepubliceerd in
Jaar2008
TypeBachelorscriptie
TaalEngels

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